Indian Blue

Indian Blue Worms (Perionyx Excavatus), known as IBs, are also fantastic composting worms. At maturity, they reach 3-5 inches. They are known for their voracious appetites and lightning-fast reproduction rates.

They are also known for their tendency to abandon their bedding every time barometric pressure changes, a storm blows through, or if they are placed to close to a vibrating machine.

They remind me of scenes in apocalyptic movies where everyone sees the huge wave/spaceship/meteor heading their way and they all start running in a desperate attempt to survive.

"There's a vibration!!!! The end is near!" <mass exodus>

IBs are not good bait worms. They are simply too skinny to easily get on a hook.

IBs are epigeic, meaning they eat and dwell in the litter layer. This is great for more shallow worm bins. It's easy to feed them and harvest their castings.

Indian Blues have been reported to eat half their body weight in waste daily but it's important to understand what the worms eat. Worms eat the bacteria that are breaking down the waste. A pound of mostly fresh salad greens placed in a bin with a pound of worms will not magically disappear overnight. Waste that has already begun to decompose will be digested quickly.

The environment will also affect the speed at which your worms eat and reproduce. Cooler temperatures result in sluggish lazy worms, while temperatures that get too high may cause stress resulting in more time spent burrowing for a cool resting place. IBs become sluggish around 65 degrees F, and start dying off when their bedding dips below 50.

I expect the IBs in a fresh new bin to eat approximately 1/2 of their body weight every couple of days. As the microbial activity in the bin increases, the food will break down quicker and the worms will consume more. And yes, I know this is different from what you hear elsewhere. This is my personal experience, not regurgitate information.

Spacing

There are approximately 1,000 Indian Blue worms to a pound, and a pound of worms will need 1 square foot of space for comfort.

IBs will self-regulate their population. If you have a pound of worms in a square foot of space they have room for minimal reproduction, give them more space if you want more worms.

Reproduction

In regards to their reproduction, they are highly prolific. Usually, you hear that your worm population can double in 60-90 days. The math tells a different story! Indian Blues will lay 19 cocoons a week but each cocoon will only hatch 1 worm.

That means in a month of ideal conditions (80-85% moisture, 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit) a single worm could produce between 84 baby worms!!!

Wowza.

Now unless you are a commercial worm farmer, you don't need to bother with the specifics. For success, ensure your worm bin is kept where the temperature will stay within range, keep the bedding moist but not wet, and give them food when they finish their last meal.

the Flighty Worm

Knowing how to set up a breeder bin is important whether you need more worms to handle your household waste or if you are starting a worm business.

We need to create an environment where the worms can easily find food and each other. They also need plenty of room because they naturally self-regulate egg production based on the available space.

My personal breeder bins are created using bedding that has already been through most of the composting process. I want the bedding to have very little recognizable material. This is what we call pre-compost.

Make sure the bedding is cool or your worms will bake!

Measure your container's surface space. Multiply the length times width, then divide this square inch number by 144 to convert it to square feet. Take this new number and multiply it times 200. I currently use the 12 qt Sterlite containers that I purchased from Walmart. The measurements are roughly 16" x 11".

  1. 16 x 11 = 176

  2. 176 / 144 = 1.22

  3. 1.22 x 200 = 244 worms

I will count out 240-250, fat and healthy adult worms and place them in the container that has been pre-loaded with 2-3 inches of pre-compost. (Sexually mature, adult worms will have a noticeable clitellum, also known as a saddle)

I add a thin layer of shredded cardboard and place a small ice cube of blended food waste on top, sprinkle grit over top of it, then cover it up with the bedding. Place a marker over your feeding zone to make it easy to find later.

I add a cube of food waste at the beginning of each new week and sprinkle worm chow over the top in the middle of the week just to make sure they have plenty of food.

I mark each bin with the date it was created and the date I need to pull the adult worms out. I pull the Indian Blue adults out on day 14.

I haven't found information about how many days it takes for IB cocoons to hatch, nor have I set up my own tests, but I feel comfortable making their cut-off at 14 days because they will have lain up to 28 cocoons each by day 14!

After counting the worms out individually for the first time it is easy to reuse those same worms to create the next breeding bins. I remind myself of this comforting tip every time I decide to add new breeding bins to the farm!

Ramping up your worm farm

Grow out bins

The cocoons left in the bedding after removing the adults will begin hatching into tiny wisps. They are skinny, with minimal color when they first emerge. That changes quickly though! They come out hungry and begin devouring food right away.

I've read that juveniles eat more than adults. If they can be compared to my teenagers, then I'm sure this is the most productive casting period in a worm's life!

I only top feed with worm chow at the beginning of a new grow-out bin. I check the top every other day to see if they are ready for more and feed as needed.

After they are eating 2 tablespoons of chow every two days, I'll switch to using ice cubes of pureed food. Most commercial worm farms stick with worm chow as the primary food source. We choose to stick with pureed food because one of our primary goals is to reduce food waste, and the worms love pureed food.

Important notes:

  • If you choose to use pureed food you will need to monitor the moisture content of any bed that does not drain. With practice, you will become a pro at adding the right amount of dry material under the food to keep moisture levels correct.

  • You will want to "fluff" the bedding before adding new wet foods. Food that has not been eaten, including bedding that has absorbed the moisture can become compacted. This compaction, if too damp, can become anaerobic. An anaerobic bed will smell bad, heat up, and put off gasses that are toxic to your worms.

We move Indian Blues out of the grow-out bin around day 21. They are a good size by this point. They reach sexual maturity between 21-35 days.